Part three of my digital nature photography book is all about "Adventures with Wildlife." The first section in this part of the book talks about getting your pictures without disturbing the wildlife. It is obvious that a good telephoto lens would allow you to keep your distance and still get a good picture, but what if your only option to getting the shot you want is by moving closer to the wildlife? Well, you have to keep in mind some simple rules. The book states that you can photograph at close range only at the subject's forbearance. Searching out animals that do not mind you being there is an important thing to keep in mind if you do not want to become dinner or end up on a stretcher.
When looking for animals, search the internet to get a good idea of their behavior and postulate where they might like to hang out before you go. When stalking animals, keep low and slow so as to not startle them. It can actually be a good thing if the animal you are shooting is aware of you; just don't make abrupt movements or noises. What ever you do, do not fence them in as this causes their "flight" option to be substituted for "fight." When trying to draw wildlife to your camera, the author suggests using peanut butter. I personally would not want to use this because I think it may draw a little more attention than I may want. When waiting for that perfect shot, remember to be patient and don't give up. It is just like hunting, but with a camera instead of a gun.
The next section talks about animals in motion. First you have to know where to shoot these scenes. The best possibilities for finding large groups of animals in motion is in national parks, wildlife preserves, and bird sanctuaries according to the author. Being on site before sunrise is optimal for shooting any kind of picture due to its soft light. Lowering your tripod is recommended so that you can get an eye level view of your subject. Especially in shooting motion, it is important to make sure you have the frame in focus, click off multiple shots at once, and worry about editing later. Some shots you will not get a second chance at, so shooting now and editing later is a great time saver.
When building a stage to capture action, there are three main things that you are tasked with. First, you have to focus on the subject accurately. Next, you must make sure your frame is set up how you want it (no twigs or branches in the way). Finally, you must make sure the background is supportive of your main subject and does not draw attention away from your subject.
The third section of the book talks about taking wildlife portraits. When taking portraits of more intimidating wildlife, telephoto lenses can be particularly advantageous. The book talks about building a three-layer picture space consisting of the foreground, midground, and background. Each one of these components must support the main subject. The foreground and background are usually out of focus while the midground might be in focus and supporting the definition of the subject. One of the most important rules in portrait photography is that the subject's face is in focus. It is better to have the head of an animal in focus and the rest of his body less in focus than to have the head out of focus and the body in focus.
Citations:
Fitzharris, Tim. National Audubon Society Guide to Nature Photography Digital Edition. Buffalo: Firefly, 2008.
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